It requires major disassembly to retrieve, and it must be retrieved. IF you lose the socket in the rear end, it is catastrophic. If the difference is closer to 1 or 4 readjust and split the difference on the adjustment.īe extra cautious when adjusting the nut that you stay out of the way of the arms. The leading edge of the lever should be on 4 at that point if in proper adjustment adjustment. Let it stabilize for a moment or two then very slowly move the lever in the opposite direction until the arms just begin to drop. Remove the socket and rod/extension bar and push the raise/ lower lever all the way forward if an older tractor or rearward if a console model. With the engine idling and the 3 pt arms down slowly turn the nut counterclockwise until the arms just begin to raise. Its a castle nut locked in place by a roll pin. Inside the bung hole is a nut that you unlock by putting the socket on it and pushing the nut back. Tape or better yet, weld a 9/16' socket to a rod or extension bar about 18' long. Remove the bung hole plug at the rear of the seat. If you go past 1 drop it down and start over. After completely lowering the arms set the front or leading edge of the dash or console lever on 1. If it raises all the way up set the L&D lever in the middle slot. If not then adjust the cable length as described in the manual. Try it in D and see if it will raise all the way up. There is a third scenario, look where your Load/Draft lever is set.

Read this entire post before attempting to adjust the draft control! However, the operating hinge adjustment screws must be properly adjusted, or the valve will pop again when the system exceeds its normal range of rotation and binds. The lift will have hydraulic pressure once again. Remove the plug, pull the spring and valve out, clean them and reinstall.

If during testing or if the cable failed, and the rock shaft exceeded its range of movement that valve will open, it also will release under loads that exceed the system rating. It looks like a bolt, there is a spring under that plug that holds the relief valve closed. Under the right side of the seat, under the cover, there is a plug at the top rear of the hydraulic body. It is also possible the relief valve released, it must be manually reset 99% of the time that happens. The new cable is now too short and the operating hinge screws (1 and 2) need to be adjusted according to the instructions in section 127 on page 83 of your manual. The old cable had stretched and adjustments were made over time. I also seem to recall that the levers could be pulled over the stops, so look at what you have and see if it would make more sense to have a lever on the other side of a stop.Common issue when replacing the cable. For draft control, that meant working with the stop until you found a setting that had the tool at the depth you wanted and that the tractor was happy pulling at the speed you selected.

I think we simply left the upper stops as far up as they would go, and would adjust the lower stops so the implement did what we wanted. I think I remember that each lever had an adjustable stop both for how far down and how far up the lever went. As I recall we used that for plowing and perhaps discing as well. For instance, if the plow was suddenly harder to pull, then the hydraulics would start raising the implement out of the ground until the pulling resistance matched what it had been previously. If you were plowing and the resistance of the ground changed, the arms would shift position. The 'draft' control would respond to changes in how hard the tractor was pulling against the implement. That was good for bush hogging, cultivating, spraying, anything where you wanted an implement kept a certain height above ground. The position control moved the arms to a set location and would keep them there. I don't know for sure about the MF 50, but our 155 had two levers, a 'draft' control and a 'Position' control.

John deere draft control adjustment